Monthly Archives: July 2010

blogging ireland travel whimsy

Location, location, location

When I left Ireland to go travelling in 2006, Ireland’s property boom was at its giddy height. People were shitting themselves that if they didn’t buy now, they’d never own a house and end up living under a bridge or, worse yet, with their parents. They were racing each other to get on the property ladder, outbidding the next dupe for grab-bag cardboard box houses in satellite towns a poxy commute from Dublin. (You can see these developments now in Guardian features on Ireland’s ghost-towns – bus tours are imminent). I had no money, and no intention of trying to stretch what I had to buy a malodorous little hutch on the fringe of society, valued at its weight in gold.

So I filled my backpack, my girlfriend did the same, and we headed for South America. Of course, we couldn’t resist the lure of the ladder for long. In Bariloche, Argentina, we did the numbers. And we bought a tent (pictured). Here’s an edited version of our bitchy little missive home.

—-

After two months on the road, we were beginning to feel like escape artists. Our friends are back home, joining Ireland´s fastest-growing club, Club Property Ladder, and we are off here with nothing to our name but two backpacks so full they are screaming for mercy. But we got nervous.

So we did the mature thing. We invested in a home. Nothing flash, you understand; with the market being the way it is we first-time buyers can´t be choosy. We just reckoned that now is the time to get our foot on the ladder, so that in three years’ time we can trade up for an extra three square feet, three feet nearer Dublin´s city centre, and feel really smug, and maybe even rub it in the noses of people who were a few months later than us and can´t afford to make the jump just yet. Peasants.

read more »

24/7 Magazine | Boards.ie

For the last few years I’ve been a solid lurker on the boards.ie photography forum, which is a profound source of photographic help, information, inspiration and the rest.

I spotted a thread late in its development this week, suggesting a 24/7 challenge. The idea was that photographers would shoot images and the volunteer editors would produce a magazine with the results, all within a 24-hour period, on the 24th of the 7th, July 24.
I was planning on taking a stroll down to the Festival of World Cultures anyway, so the ‘kids’ (my cameras) came along.
A diversion at the start meant going to an olde-worlde jeweller with my Granddad to get his ancient watch repaired, and I snapped a few shots while there.
With the 24/7 theme,my pic of a watchmaker doing his job must have struck a chord, because there it is on the cover. I have another one inside, too.
The images inside the magazine far surpass what I produced in terms of technical skill and technique, and it’s a real honour to have been featured at all. Finding my pic on the cover this morning was very cool indeed.
Kudos to Tommy Kavanagh and Chris Collins for putting the end product together and making it look so damn fine.
photography video

Nice Weather We’re Having…

Rain from Markham Nolan on Vimeo.

Marooned as my garden office temporarily became an island, I got out the camera and started shooting out the door in frustration.

Good thing I didn’t have a gun to hand. Nerdy details over the fold.

read more »

travel

Deep Breath

In the air pocket of a gloomy sea-cave, a New York teenager breaks the surface in a panic. His shock of curly hair is pressed flat to the nape of his neck, and he gulps a lungful of air before spitting an adrenaline-fuelled monologue.

“Holy SHIT! I seriously though I would DIE in there, man!”
He pushes his snorkel mask up past eyes wide as dinner plates.
“I was following your fins in and you just DISAPPEARED into the DARK. I thought I was going to DIE, dude, oh my God. That was AWESOME!”
This cossetted young Manhattanite has just swum the length of a 75-foot underwater cave in total darkness on one lungful of air. One breath. He’s feeling pretty pumped.
This is free-diving. The fins he followed into the black hole were mine. This was my favourite part of my job, every day, for three summers in the Caribbean.
Africa sport world cup

Vuvu Zealots

There’s an aul saying that football isn’t life and death – it’s much more important than that. It’s a lazy cliché, but with the post-mortem of Africa’s first world cup, many will toot their horn, saying that football could be responsible for breathing new life into the continent.

In a bar on Friday night, a friend told me how he was amazed at the ubiquity of football when he was working in Ghana, where every flat patch of dust became a soccer pitch, and anything solid and spherical was used as a ball. Football was everywhere, a complete leveller.

The picture above is a genuine African life-and-death soccer situation. The flat patch was, at one stage, the bottom of a dam near the village of Kilema, a coffee & banana plantation area on the lower slopes of Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro. The dam was drained after a tragic death where a young boy fell into the waters and drowned, and a separate, safer, area was set aside further uphill for storing water.

The dam floor had been flattened by sediment, and after drainage it became a grassy, level clearing. What was abandoned due to death came alive again as soon as a set of posts were set up, and every evening we were there, the old dam would fill with kids playing soccer until the light faded.  The ball was knackered, the leather worn to scrubby suede, and turning up with a puncture kit and a pump made a Californian friend of mine a local hero.

That’s all I got on this topic, I’m no soccer fan. But I am a fan of Jessica Hiltout’s marvellous video series created ahead of the World Cup. One is embedded here. Go find the rest.

Joy Is Round from THE AMEN PROJECT on Vimeo.

Africa backpacker travel

Sir Bob, Mint Tea & Deerskin Jeans

Tea is a global panacea. A good portion of earth’s inhabitants believe that for any and all stressful situations, a nice brew will pull you back from the edge. The gurgle of the kettle, the burble of tea from spout and the gentle glug of milk (if you take it) is the normal Irish ritual, along with a trowelful of sugar. Other countries take their tea green, minty or spiced.

Little girls start early, dragging their older brothers to imaginary tea parties with teddy bears and Barbie dolls, sitting in the middle of the garden.
The most interesting tea party I ever attended was made up of six grown men sitting on the side of the road. One of those men was wearing home-made deerskin pants. We were in Africa.